Can you make a bushcraft style knife without a forge or anvil?
This is the challenge I set up for myself when I started writing DIY Knife Making - Bushcraft Knives.
The short answer is: Yes, you absolutely can.
The part of the process that usually trips people up is the Hardening.
Hardening in knife making takes quite a bit of heat to pull off correctly.
Forges can reach that temperature very easily and quickly, but the downside is forges can be expensive to buy or build sometimes (time-consuming more than anything).
The way to get around the need for a forge is to simply build a fire in your backyard fire pit or in a woodstove if you have one.
You can reach Hardening Temperature in a campfire.
The toasty coals in that fire grate are perfect for getting a piece of 1084 carbon steel up to hardening temperature.
What is proper hardening temperature for 1084 carbon steel?
The ideal temperature to hit is around 1200 degrees Fahrenheit and not more than 1500 degrees F.
This temp represents a sweet spot for the metal where it becomes non-magnetic.
The lack of magnetism is a shortcut for knife makers and blacksmiths to know that it's ready to quench.
In terms of color, you're looking for a little brighter than cherry red.
What About the Anvil?
I do 95% of my work at Brown County Forge on either of my two anvils.
However, for this style of knife making, an anvil isn't needed.
There is no hammerwork involved. (Sadly for some, but I'll explain why below.)
In the book, we cover the same style of knife making that manufacturer's like Ka-Bar Knives and Buck Knives use: stock removal.
In stock removal knife making, you're cutting away the metal you don't need from the edges of a template (provided as a bonus in the book).
You start with a piece of steel that matches closely to the dimensions of your final knife.
So you're not starting with huge chunk of steel that you need to thin out.
The main reasons I chose stock removal over forging is for simplicity and consistency of results.
It's much easier to get good results doing stock removal than it is hot forging.
What kind of results can you get with 1084 steel, a little bit of wood, and some step-by-step instructions?
If you follow the steps in the guide and have some patience, you will come away with a knife you can use for years to come.
It will hold up under heavy use (including batonning kindling, cutting cordage, cleaning small game, and all the other bushcraft wilderness skills) as long as you heat treat correctly and set the grind according to the specifications in the guide.
Note: For bushcraft knives, you want to avoid a Full Flat grind in favor of a shorter bevel. The Scandinavian grind is typical of this style of knife.
*This is a brief preview of the Full-Color guide.
If you'd like to learn more about Bushcraft Knife Making, you can pick up the eBook or Paperback at these online retailers:
